Calculations (Yes, We Need Some, Sorry)

Welcome to the fourth day of Shawl Design for Beginners! Today we’re going to talk about shawl design calculations and how to overcome math phobia to get ready to calculate the basics of our new shawl design.

“I want my shawl to be X inches wide.”

How many rows to achieve this? How many stitches to cast on? Questions over questions! Let’s start at the beginning.

First Things First: Gauge

The very first thing we need to define is our knitting gauge. How many stitches and rows do we need using our chosen yarn and needles in our chosen pattern to achieve a certain width and height? The answer is your gauge, so start with knitting a swatch and find out how many stitches and rows you get in a certain width, like 4 by 4 inches (10 x 10 cm).

You can learn more about gauge in my following articles:

Shawl Design Calculations

The next step after finding out your gauge is to define the target length and width of your shawl. The numbers strongly depend on the chosen shawl shape, and our example will use the triangle knitted sideways we’re working on together.

We declared our desired width at the longer side of our example triangle shawl in the assignment of day one. Most of you chose a length of approximately 60 inches (150cm) for the longer side. Let’s have a look at an illustration of our shawl-to-be.

A triangle shawl worked sideways. The longer side labeled as “L” should be around 60 inches (150cm) long.

As soon as we chose a number for L (like the 60 inches in our example) and have a certain gauge to work with, both H (height) and W (width) are defined automatically. Don’t believe me? Well, mathematics does the trick.

Calculating Our Example Shawl

In our example shawl we chose L = 60 inches (150cm). In case you’re not interested in the details

Trigonometry tells us that our target width W for our example shawl, with increases every other row, is given by

 W = L  * sin(45°)  = L * 0.7 = 42 in (107 cm)

If in doubt, multiply your chosen length L by 0.7 to get you target width W.

Now we know our target width in inches (or centimeters), but how many stitches do we need in the end to achieve our target width? This is where gauge comes in.

We know how many stitches we need to achieve a width of 4 inches (10cm). Let’s assume we got a gauge of 5 stitches and 6 rows in 1 x 1 inches (2 stitches / 2.4 rows per cm). This means we need to knit 5 stitches to get a width of 1 inches (2 stitches for 1 cm). To get our number of total stitches at the upper side, where our shawl is W in (W cm) wide, we need to multiply our target width W by our number of stitches per inch (stitches per cm):

STS = W * STS / in (cm) = 42*5 = 210 sts

This means, as we’re increasing every other row, we need to knit 205 (=210-5) rows if we cast on 3 stitches in the very beginning to achieve our target width.

Let’s Sum Up

  1. Define your target length L.
  2. Get gauge.
  3. Calculate your target width W by multiplying L with 0.7.
  4. Multiply W with your number of stitches per inch (cm) – this is your number of stitches at the top end of the shawl.
  5. Divide the result of 4. minus your cast on stitches by two to get the number of total rows you need to work.

If you’re tired of just thinking about calculating anything might be the app for you – it calculates all these things for you automatically. Really! No fluff!

Any questions? If yes, make sure to leave a comment below!

Julia <3

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